Marty and I decide to climb the Squamish Buttress route via the Butt Light variation to the top of the first peak of the Stawamus Chief. To get to the Buttress we climb Over the Rainbow on the Apron (5p 10a) then Boomstick crack (5.7) in one long pitch. I lead the first 3 pitches of the Buttress route and then Marty tackles the spicy 5.9 first pitch of Butt Light and finishes with the exciting 5.8 chimney pitch. In all we climb 12 pitches in 5 1/2 hours from car to peak. Since this is Marty's last climb before he heads to Europe we linger on a ledge marked by a cairn near the top of first peak enjoying the surrounding views and the privilege of being able to climb a classic route up the Chief.